What a Roof Inspection Covers, Inside and Out

Most people in Anderson and the Upstate ask for a roof inspection for one of four reasons. A storm just came through and something looks different from the driveway. A stain showed up on a ceiling. A home or building is changing hands. Or the roof is getting older and you want to know what you are dealing with before a leak decides for you.

Each reason changes what the inspector focuses on, but the basic scope is the same. Someone looks at the outside of the roof, looks at the inside of the building under it, and writes down what they found. Anderson Metal Roofing and Shingles lists three inspection types on its request-a-quote form: a Reroof Inspection, a Repair Inspection and a New Purchase Inspection.

This guide explains what each part of an inspection covers and what a useful report looks like, so you can judge whether the inspection you get is complete.

Home inspection standards are a good baseline for what any roof look-over should include. The InterNACHI Standards of Practice say the inspector inspects, from ground level or the eaves, the roof-covering materials, gutters, downspouts, vents, flashing, skylights, chimney and other roof penetrations. The ASHI Standard of Practice lists roofing materials, roof drainage systems, flashing, and skylights, chimneys and other penetrations, and asks the inspector to state in writing how the roof was inspected. A roofing contractor usually goes further than a home inspector, but these lists are the floor.

• The covering itself. Shingles that are cracked, curled, missing or losing granules; metal panels that are dented, rusting at cut edges or lifting; membranes that are blistered, bare or split at the seams.
• Flashing. The metal or membrane where the roof meets walls, chimneys, skylights and pipes. Lifted, rusted or repeatedly caulked flashing is a common leak path.
• Penetrations. Pipe boots, vents, exhaust fans, satellite mounts and anything an HVAC or solar crew attached. Sealant around them ages faster than the roof does.
• Edges and trim. Drip edge, fascia, rake and eave trim, and on metal roofs the ridge cap and closures where wind-driven rain gets in.
• Gutters and downspouts. Clogs, sags, pulled hangers, and the granules or metal shavings that collect in them and hint at wear higher up.
• Fasteners and sealant on metal roofs. Backed-out screws, failed washers and dried sealant on exposed-fastener panels, and sealant at end laps and penetrations on standing seam.

The inside tells you what the outside has been letting through. An attic check with a flashlight is the most useful part of an inspection for many homes, and it is the part you can safely repeat yourself between professional visits.

The inspector looks for daylight through the deck, dark stains or drip trails on the underside of the sheathing, rusty nail tips, damp or matted insulation, sagging decking between rafters, and a musty smell. Bath fan and dryer ducts that end inside the attic instead of outside get noted too, because that moisture condenses on the underside of a cold roof and looks like a leak.

Timing matters inside. EPA guidance on mold says wet building materials need to be dried within 24 to 48 hours to avoid mold growth, so a stain that is still damp is a reason to move quickly. Ceiling stains, bubbling paint and swollen trim below the attic get photographed too, with the understanding that water travels along framing and the stain is often not under the entry point.

How the inspector reaches the outside details varies. A home inspector may use binoculars, a ladder at the eaves or a drone, and neither InterNACHI nor ASHI requires walking the roof. A roofing crew walks it with fall protection when the slope and surface allow. You do not need to go up at all. OSHA reports that falls from elevation continue to be one of the main causes of death for construction workers, 389 of 1,034 construction fatalities in 2024. The company's post on what roofing contractors check after storm damage covers the storm-specific signs; this guide is about the full routine.

A roof inspection without a report is a conversation, not an inspection. Whatever company you use, the report should let someone who was not there understand the roof's condition. Look for these parts:

• Photos keyed to locations. Each finding tied to a spot (north slope above the kitchen, west wall flashing), not a loose pile of images.
• Severity and urgency. What is active, what is worn but dry, and what is cosmetic.
• Likely cause. Age, an installation detail, storm impact, debris, or a trade that attached something to the roof.
• Recommended action. Monitor, repair or replace, with a reason. A repair estimate should be itemized so you can compare it line by line.
• What was not inspected and why. ASHI asks the inspector to state the method used; a good report also says which areas could not be seen and what would be needed to see them.

The three inspection types on the quote form map to three questions. A Reroof Inspection answers whether the roof is near the end of its useful service and what replacing it would involve, including how many layers are on it and the condition of the decking. A Repair Inspection chases a specific problem, usually a leak or storm damage, and ends in a repair estimate. A New Purchase Inspection gives a buyer or seller a roof-specific opinion to go with the general home inspection.

If the inspection is for a storm claim, Anderson Metal Roofing and Shingles can inspect and document the damage and give you photos and an itemized estimate to use with your insurer. You handle the claim yourself. South Carolina law (S.C. Code Section 40-59-25(D)) bars a residential builder or contractor from representing or negotiating a homeowner's roof insurance claim, while allowing you to consult a contractor of your choice for an evaluation of the roof's condition.

Buyers often ask whether a general home inspection is enough. Home inspectors follow standards that cover the roof from the ground or eaves, and InterNACHI's standard says they are not required to walk the roof or estimate how long it will last. A roofing contractor can usually get closer and will price what they find. The company's post on what appraisers look for in a roof explains the seller's side.

If you are not sure which one you need, choose General Information on the form and describe the situation. The quote page also offers virtual consultations by Zoom or FaceTime, which work well for a first look at photos you have taken from the ground. Measurements still have to be verified on site.

Sometimes a full inspection is not the right next move. If water is coming in right now, contain it first and read what to do about a roof leak right now before you book anything.

Some problems are not roof problems. Gutters that overflow at the corners may need cleaning or re-hanging, not a roof inspection. A stain beside a chimney can come from a cracked crown or open mortar joints, which a mason handles. Condensation from a bath fan venting into the attic is a ventilation fix. A good inspector will tell you when the roof is not the cause.

If you already know the roof is old and tired, skip the general look and ask for a Reroof Inspection, then read roof repair versus replacement so you know what to ask when the estimate arrives. If you want to do a first pass yourself, DIY roof inspection versus professional inspection draws the line between what you can check from the ground and attic and what needs a crew. For anything beyond that, the roof repair and maintenance page and the free quote form are the next step.